Let’s Drink French!
Oh, to be in Paris now! As so many of our compatriots are. The Paris Olympics are spectacular! I’m there in spirit, toasting nightly with a glass of French wine. I’ve tasted lots of late, and am happy to share some very nice discoveries.
Whites and dry pinks are my faves right now, a welcome chill against the recent heat spikes.
I’m always up for a sparkler as aperitif, and Maison Foucher Crèmant de Loire is an excellent value, ($21) and widely available. Dry, fragrant—also great for raw oysters and clams.
Sancerre 2023: awfully pricey these days, but so delicious, with that scintillating cut of citrus, fresh mown grass and sleek minerality. Just on its own, but tops with shellfish, goat cheese. Check out these labels ($30 to $40): Pascal Jolivet, Roger Neveu, Domaine Delaporte, Reverdy. On some wine lists: $12-13/glass.
More affordable is another excellent French sauvignon, Château Graville-Lacoste 2022 from the Graves region of Bordeaux. A consistent favorite of mine for its stony mineral accents, dry, crisp and smooth, excellent choice for shellfish and seafood pastas. $19-21
Chardonnay: Don’t say you hate it till you’ve tried some of France’s lovely unoaked ones: Chablis, my first pick for oysters on the half shell; Macon-Villages, Saint-Vȇran. Absolutely dry, appealing accents of citrus, pear. Look for 2022-23s ($25-35): Famille Savary Chablis, Louis Moreau Chablis, Chenevières Petit Chablis. Also check out J-C Perraud 2022 Saint-Véran from the Macon region in southern Burgundy—a charmer! ($21-25)
Dry Rosés: I always have one in my frig—they’re so versatile, as afternoon sippers or with a variety of foods, especially grilled sausages (and yes, hot dogs!), goat cheese, salmon, ham and other cold cuts, country paté. So many to choose from, but my go-to’s are from Provence, Côtes du Ventoux and the Languedoc. Hard to go wrong here.
Lighter reds can take a short cool down, too—one summer month in the Loire Valley, I found it so refreshing to find restaurants serving cabernet francs (Chinon, Bourgueil, Saumur Rouge) with a crisp chill. Other reds that will benefit from a cool-down are Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages, Côtes-du-Ventoux rouge, St. Chinian rouge, Saumur-Champigny, and Alsace Pinot Noir. Affordable ($12-23), highly versatile with summer foods.
If some of these wines are new to you, be adventurous and try them—you’ll be glad!
A votre santé…