Best Buys

Rioja Crianzas 2020-2021 Spain $14-19 
Among my favorite choices for roast chicken, paella, meaty pizzas, grilled sausages, these medium-bodied Spanish reds are palate-pleasing and versatile with food. Mostly tempranillo (the principal grape of Rioja), they are aged a year before release and notable for warm, lively fruit that is easy to drink. Labels to look for: El Coto, Cune, Marqués de Caçeres, Bodegas Lan.

Looking for a good, dry sparkler? Check out Crémant de Bourgogne, more widely available than they used to be. Made from the Burgundian varieties chardonnay and pinot, with aligoté or gamay in the blend—such as the dry pink froth at left, Bailly-Lapierre (pinot noir and some gamay), a delightful bubbly with appealing accents of berryish fruit, dry and light, perfect as an aperitif.  $22-26