Rioja Crianza-Spain’s Most Drinkable Red

Rioja Crianza-Spain’s Most Drinkable Red

Spain abounds in red wines of many styles, from deeply hued Ribero del Duero or full-bodied rustic Bierzo Mencia to elegant Rioja Gran Reservas—and a great variety of others to explore in American wine shops and restaurant wine lists.

I discovered the charms of Rioja Crianza years ago. These wines from the venerable region of Rioja in northern Spain are delightfully fresh and juicy, their berryish fruit pairing well with lamb shank, roast chicken, pork, or bean-rich vegetarian dishes. Made mostly with tempranillo, crianzas must be aged two years before release, from several months to a year in oak barrels, the rest in bottle. This gives them a lighter flavor profile than Rioja Reserva (three years aging with a year or more in oak) or Gran Reserva (four years aging, at least two in oak), the Gran Reserva made in exceptional vintages from select barrels.

Crianzas are more affordable, too. Excellent crianzas are available for $17 to $21 a bottle. It’s the emphasis on fruit that gives crianzas their charm: lively summer berries, just enough tannin for supple structure. I recently enjoy the 2020 Bodegas Perica Crianza ($17) with pan-braised lamb chops one night and a bean burrito the next. I always look for crianzas on restaurant wine lists because I know they will be more accessible and food-friendly than many of the tannic young reds that are offered.

Good labels to look for, from these Bodegas: Beronia, El Coto de Imaz, Loriñon, Marqués de Caçeres, Ostatu, Perica Viña Olagosa