Wines for Thanksgiving

So many wines are compatible for the Thanksgiving feast – Dry Riesling, Zinfandel, Viognier, Gruner, (ABC anything but Chardonnay), Cabernet Franc, Merlot—any of these can work. But they’re not my first pick.

The wine I’ve found most amenable to the variety of flavors on the table: Pinot Noir

Not the biggest Pinots, such as many of the best from Russian River Valley, nor the most complex, such as grands crus from Burgundy. The Pinot Noirs I choose for this occasion are medium-bodied, fruit-driven but not jammy, lighter in weight and tannin—and affordable. They brim with flavors of cherry, plums, raspberry and other summer berries, with a touch of spicy accents that make the wines lively. They’re not tannic but smooth, fruity without being sweet (except for Meiomi) and thus can take a light chill, which makes them as refreshing as any white or dry rosé. I especially like Pinot Noirs from Oregon for their balance, the emphasis on fruit, and the light touch with oak. I also like the new Pinots coming from New Zealand, regions such as Marlsborough and Otago, for their pure fruit and bright acidity.

This Thanksgiving I plan to open one of the older Pinot Noirs in my cellar, which I’m trying to drink down, oldest bottles by oldest bottles. Decanted, of course, and I’ll report how it stood up to the feast.

Moderate-priced Pinots--$19 to $26—abound in wine shops right now. Whole Foods has an excellent collection. So does Total Wine, and very likely a wine shop near you.

Among several Pinot Noirs I’ve liked in recent tastings, here are a few I recommend, from the vintages of 2020-2023 unless otherwise noted.

Oregon: Cloudline, Argyle, AtoZ, Elk Cove, King Estate, Willamette Valley Vyds

Sonoma Coast: Banshee, La Crema, L’Oliveto

New Zealand: Criterion, Fern Ridge, Roaring Meg

And a lovely way to start the celebration: Domaine Mumm Brut Rosé, Napa Valley

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!!!